| It has been brought to my attention that the procedure is the same for all years of KLR 600 and 650 (thank you fixer). Need a Clymer manual? Check out www.clymer.com or www.youtube.com Tools you'll need: 8mm socket with small ratchet (I know I said 7 mm in the video, that's wrong. It's 8 mm) 17mm wrench 17mm socket with torque wrench capable of 17 ft*lbs You do not need to remove any body work to change the oil. Before changing the oil, warm up the engine and oil. You don't need to drag race it around for miles and miles, just either let it idle for 5 minutes or ride it around the yard (if your wife doesn't mind) or around the block. The drain plug might be warm, the oil will be warm to hot; plan accordingly. You might also want to let the bike sit a few minutes so the oil can drain down from the top end. The oil drain (17mm) is on the bottom of the bike, a little left of center, aft of the end of the skid plate (assuming stock skid). It is accessible from the right side of the bike. There should be some sort of gasket / washer on the drain plug. If you have a magnetic drain plug, clean the metal bits off of there. Now would be a good time to adjust the balancer chain ("doohickey") (every other oil change should be good): www.youtube.com The torque for the drain plug is 17 ft*lbs. *2008 model: oil drain plug torque is 21 ft*lbs. The oil filter, oil filler, and oil view window are all on the right side of the lower end unit of the engine. There are 2 bolts (8 mm) holding ... |
